Lipids and Human Skin: Sebaceous lipids and essential fatty acids as dermatologically and cosmeticeutically important modulators of skin homeostasis and disease

Object of the submitted project is the continuation (Phase II) of the exploration of lipids as dermatologically and cosmeticeutically appropriate inducers of skin quality and prevention of disease at different milestones of human life. During the first year of the project, which was supported at a small part by Ferrosan, the clinical relevance of sebaceous lipid fractions was detected in patients with normal skin, acne, atopy complex and age-associated skin xerosis and the role of lipid quality for human skin was postulated. Exact effects of sebaceous lipid stimulators, such as molecules of the CRH system, were studied on SZ95 sebaceous gland cells in vitro. To corroborate the detected lipid effects, the expression of the CRH system, PPAR and inflammatory cytokines was studied in skin biopsies of acne versus non-acne skin. The continuation of the project will allow similar studies in aged versus young skin. In addition, CRH levels in the sebum of individuals studied will be assessed. At last, topical substitution with certain anti-inflammatory lipid fractions will be performed in a pilot clinical study with selected skin diseases and conditions over one month. The improvement of skin quality, including wrinkle density, skin elasticity, transepidermal water loss, skin surface lipid content, sebum synthesis and the reduction of bacterial density will be evaluated.